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Sorry the free how to video I made in tiny garage on my back didn't help you enough.

Yes sir. Utah Motorsports campus

Thought it looked familiar.

Thanks pops!

Have you bleed the intercooler system really good? I have the lg cooling kit and have zero over heating issues. Also e60 now which helps a lot. The hood vent is huge too

@@ClaytonYatescarenthusiast Bleeding helped a lot! I don’t get limp modes anymore. Oil temps still get near 290’s though. And I do feel timing being pulled after a few laps. I only have Prospeed oil cooler, heat exchanger and 2019 automatic radiator. Coolant is good now.

What seats are you using?

@Roadracer7676 290 isn't too bad. I mean it's hot af but I see 270 after 2 or 3 laps. I'm never doing more than 3 laps cause time attack just no more pace in the car after 2 flyers. The hood vent would probably drop 5 or 10 degrees. Also fender vents with just holes in the liner make a big improvement. That factory duct that goes from the radiator to the hood is bad news. Without a doubt take that out. There is wind tunnel testing on that allow and it picks up significantly in front downforce meaning air is extracting much better. If you don't want to cut the hood and add the race louvers hood vent then start by just removing the plastic duct. Gm even admitted that caused worse air flow but it directed heavy rain water away from the engine.

@@ClaytonYatescarenthusiast Thank you so much for the detailed replies! What seat are you running? And suspension? Is it decent in the street still, or pretty much no.

Much appreciated! Really enjoy your video on c7z stuff. Supra is sick too!

@@ClaytonYatescarenthusiast thanks a lot man! Learning to get into track racing and learning from you, Amir, Kevin Burke many many others. I always enjoy seeing your content and racing

I didn’t turn it counter clockwise after installing the rotor and brakes. Nothing happened. Once I turned my car on, it automatically went back to where it was supposed to be. Is there anything that could happen if you don’t turn it counter clockwise after the pad change?

That’s not necessary. Nothing wrong with doing that if you want to, but no need.

Comp cam xe268h I believe

Oh sorry with the kenne bell it was stock pi cams. With the turbo is was the comp 268 cams

Thanks I have 02 gt with a 2.1 KB an I’m thinking about doing cams(xe262bh) and headers

Such a good question! I'm currently running replacement oem rotors and hats only because I got them locally for cheap. Girodisc are on my list and have several friends running them. The rears are a lot lighter, too. When I buy, I'll buy complete with hats. The oem brakes calipers are great, little heavy but solid with the right pads. I never do full sessions. Up to 3 flyers then cool down laps. I have done full sessions but just too hard on street cars and full pace. 8 10th its fine. You have 2 options with oem brakes. Replace rotors a lot or replace pads. I chose pads. If you get pads that last longer, the trade-off is two things, less bite and hard on rotors. Or more bite and destroy rotors. The gloc r12 compound is my go-to. I've tried r8 r10 and r16. R16 was a little too aggressive on rotors and took a little too much heat to come in. The r12 is perfect. They still last a while but don't kill rotors. For me, running the same pad front and rear helped the car. I had friend, 17 time nasa championship driverthat keep telling me to stop running hard-core pads like the raybesto st43 and I regret not listening sooner. He also runs the gloc pads. But r8 cause mostly autocross and lighter car. Report back if you swap to gloc and let me know your thoughts.

@@ClaytonYatescarenthusiast thanks for insight. Went ahead and ordered griodiscs for the front. Fronts are developing some deep cracks from the slots but not to the edge yet. Have a trackday coming up at Sebring next month and don’t want to have issues from trying to get more life out of the stock rotors. Eventually will do the rears too, but they look good for now. Hoping the EBC SR11 pads play nicely with the girodisc rotors. They are a supposedly rotor-friendly due to these pads leaving a transfer layer on the rotor which reduces the wear on the rotor itself. At least that’s what EBC’s marketing department says. Mixed reviews on these pads but I have liked the modulation and wear so far, at least on 200tw tires. I may fall outside their ideal operating temp window when switching to the 3R tires though. Most are running the SR21 (higher friction & higher max temp rating) in front when running slicks. Agree with your preference of preserving rotor life over pad life & will look into the GLOC R12 once these wear out. You’re definitely right about the car not liking full sessions. Getting to ~ 270* oil and 230* water temp give or take. I’ve bled the supercharger circuit to prevent pump cavitation and will be running Boostane going forward for knock prevention / prevent ECM from pulling timing. Not sure if I should do catless downpipes to help get heat out of the engine and away from the oil cooler. Hell of a fun track car despite the little headaches. Would like to add more downforce like you’ve done eventually.

@Doing_The_Thing yeah the two things you mentioned about boostane and the supercharger bleeding are huge. I was surprised how many cracks my oem rotors got with r16 pads. R12 slowed it way down. Report back on the Giro disc rotors if you remember to. Would love to hear feedback. The nine live zr1 replacemet wing is a cheap option that works great. Little effort to make work though. If you buy the eos zr1 rear wing kit and use that mount with the nine lives zr1 replacemet it works great. My eos kit needed extra bracing and loctite on the bolts. So maybe better options for mounting kit. Before modifying the mount it broke. The front splitters on our cars are the hard thing. I'm on revision 5 or 6 in less than 2 years but have the splitter completely figured out at this point. I'll probably make a video on how I did the front splitter cause it would help a lot of people. I thought I had it figured but at 150 it would break everytime. With professional awesome's recommendations I figured it out. The 3r is an awesome tire!! Good luck and be safe. Rsr studio has a good rear cage option for your car too. Highly recommend with race seat and harnesses. Harness bars and extremely dangerous. Some racing series have outlawed them. Rsr studio cage is only 51 lbs and stiffens the car up. Piece of mind knowing if you roll the harnesses bar won't cause you to be crushed.

⁠@@ClaytonYatescarenthusiast Hey Clayton, just wanted to follow up. I did install the girodisc front rotors and they’ve been holding up well so far. Some normal small spider cracks but nothing like the crazy deep cracks the oem rotors developed. TBD on the longevity paired with the EBC SR11 pads, which have lasted quite a long time. From what I’ve read, they’re comparable to the ST43 pads. I’ll try the R12’s once these wear out. Could you share any detail on the front splitter design? I’ll be upgrading the aero setup soon (currently just poverty lip splitter in front and stage 2/3 spoiler in rear). On my shortlist is the APR splitter, but would consider doing a more elaborate setup if it’s worth it. Mind you I am driving the car to the track not trailering. For rear wing, I’m hesitant to hack up the bumper to do it. Also did the EOS mount line up to the ZR1 wing? I’ve read the mounting points are different.

Awesome dude! Yeah I was going off and either hitting that curb again and likely braking car more or trying the dirt. Dirt was better lol. Thanks for watching!! Cool channel

Since this car is a later manual there is a factory oil cooler where the automatic transmission cooler is on auto c7z cars. I don't have headers just full cat deletes. Makes 590 to the tire. It's tuned to keep temps down and be reliable. Doing a cam and low side along with ported blower and stock pulley combo over the winter. Very reliable 680 to 700 wheel is the goal on e50 to e60. Jms voltage booster for low side. To get a c7z to 3200 you'd have to strip it pretty extensively. Mine has one race seat and rear panels out and with cage and aero it's still 3465 without driver and 3625 with.

3605 to 3625 with driver depending on fuel, makes 590 to wheels, Goodyear 3r tires. Heavy for a corvette but c7z are quite heavy.

I didn't but I have an app along with obd link lx where I can. I wanted to find a way anyone could do without special tools. It worked perfectly but there maybe a better way and following service manual is recommended. If you search 2020 bmw m340i service manual there is Google docs available of the full service manual for free on one of the forums. Pretty awesome manual. Literally has everything. I recently replaced an exterior door handle base assembly using it. Those manuals are pretty expensive.

g20.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1820068 7th comment down. The 330i is also available on this same post, 5th post

Thanks 👍

Yeah maybe I'll do a follow-up video on them. Lots of good information. They have all came back very positive and car is running strong at 67k miles now. Best so far was 0w40 mobil one x3 and the 0w40 euro has been very good as well. Run those 2 and buy the x3 when I find it at autozone

I haven't touched my rotors yet. Have changed pads twice. 67k miles. Everything is perfect. Rotors still look great. I road course race car and go through lots of rotors when they crack from heat, to me these street driven rotors are in amazing shape. You could cut but unless there is a flaw in the rotor I wouldn't touch them. Are you doing the work yourself or shop?

@@ClaytonYatescarenthusiast thanks for the advice! I’m going to be doing them myself. And yea I’d say my rotors are still in great shape, running your finger across them there smooth and should be fine for a pad swap. The current pads still have a little bit of material left so it’s not like it’s gone metal to metal. I’m going for brembo pads in the front and the powerstop ones for the rear. I also don’t like the initial grabyness of the stock pads, it’s annoying sometimes getting the car to smooth stop. $220 total on rock auto for the wear sensors and all pads have placed the order!

A lot less dust. They hold up plenty good. I actually tracked it around 2 heavy braking race tracks at full pace when it was making 500 wheel on e40 on these pads. They faded but held up way better than I'd expect. And I'm a time attack driver so not like i was easy on it. For the street and some auto x these are great pads. They don't have the aggressive bite the factory pads have when newer but that's a feel thing only and I don't like the grabbyness of the stock pads and neither did my wife for street driving. Honestly I'd rather these pads over factory. All the braking ability is still there just more linear. The brake dust is a huge bonus and bmw pads are extremely over priced for what you get and old school tech with high levels of brake dust. Hope that helps.

@@ClaytonYatescarenthusiast thanks for your response it helps a lot. One more question, I have a 2020 model but I bought it used and it came with software 7.2021. I’m pretty sure I need a bench unlock but just wondering if you knew if this software was tuneable

www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/bmw,2020,m340i,3.0l+l6+turbocharged,3443949,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad+wear+sensor,10283

I bought the powerstop brand ones

Yes they show the same part number. Go to rock auto and go through their guide. Step by step right to the pads.

Figured that's pretty self-explanatory.

Harbor freight. I think it's like 159. Works pretty good. I wish I had the bigger one too. This one only goes to 100 ft lbs

It's okay that you think you know. If you'd like you can use the oil that you think works best and I'll use 10 years of testing. Emissions has more control over what oil goes in your car than what actually performs best per environment. Car is tuned, auto x raced, and in 110 degree summer and has an analysis with every change. Lol. Go use your 0w20. Drink it for all I care. Only reason I reply is for others that want real world information.

@@ClaytonYatescarenthusiastbruh you’re the one thats thinking you know more than the engineers. BMW switched to 20 weight oils not just for fuel economy and emissions, it’s also because the engine parts clearances. 40 weight is a bit too thick for these engines. 30 weight at most. You think you’re doing the extra things to prevent damages but you’re not.

⁠​⁠​⁠@@alj7094Actually you're the one thinking they know better than the engineers. Straight out of the BMW G20 service manual, it says that BMW oil spec LL-04 is among those technically suitable for the B58, which was/is available in 0w40. The 0w20 recommendation is strictly for fuel mileage or emissions concerns.

I had nothing but success witht he transmission. The car still has 2 lap records and was raced for 50k miles restlessly. 2 fluid changes. Some guys have the shutter issues but easy fixes now. I love the transmission. My current car is c7z with manual trans and don't get me wrong it's great but I'd probably be quicker around a single lap with a8 trans in corvette.